Last year I decided I needed to improve my pant-making skills. My sewing has come a long way but fitting pants – especially with woven fabric – still feels really challenging.
I was drawn to the Palisade Pants by Papercut Patterns as soon as the pattern was released. It looked like an easy yet comfortable sew and I love the detail created through the side pockets. I bought the PDF immediately as I couldn’t wait for the physical pattern to arrive!
I’ve since made a few different versions of the pattern. The first pair were made of wool which I’ve had in my stash for ages. I decided to make my pair based on the measurements even though Papercut Patterns sizing is notoriously generous. For me, the sizing of this pattern was spot on. I made a size medium.
I made a few changes to the pattern to adjust the fit. I changed the shape of the front crotch curve to more of a J curve – see image below. I also decided to remove the faux fly – I thought it made the pants look a bit casual. I decreased the height of the front rise by 3cm and the side by 1cm. I’m short waisted and the length in the rise feels very long. I narrowed the waistband to have 3.2cm wide elastic instead of the 5cm in the pattern. I also moved some fabric from the centre back to the side – not sure if this last one makes any difference on fit. I was basing my adjustment on a pant pattern which fits me well.
I love the side pocket of the Palisade pants.
Since making the adjustments above I now have a pattern which fits me perfectly! I have made several versions. The only other difference is that I haven’t topstitched the side panels down. I didn’t like this finish on my test pair.
The pockets on these pants are bulky. It hasn’t bother me but it does bother some people. If you wanted to reduce this bulk I would make the pocket bag from a single layer of fabric. I would finish the top of the inside of the bag with bias binding – rather than a layer of fabric. You could also cut the internal pocket bag in half. The visible fabric would need to be stitched to a lightweight cotton which would reduce the bulk at the bottom of the pocket.
My most recent pair of Palisade’s is made with Renee stretch cotton drill from Drapers Fabrics. I used the reverse side of the fabric as my previous pants in this fabric attracted so much fluff from my cats. The reverse side is much smoother and the cat fur doesn’t stick to it.
I’ve always thought that elasticated waist pants weren’t office appropriate. For me, the mix of elasticised back waistband and the flat front is extremely comfortable especially compared to the pressure of a tight waistband with a zip which digs in.
I love a good tried-and-true pattern and this is one of mine. What’s your favourite pant pattern?