The Papercut Nova coat (previously called the Sapporo coat) is a garment/pattern which is well recognizable by other sewists. In fact, I recently wore this jacket and it was admired by a fellow sewist in a retail store.
I have previously made this pattern in wool as can be seen here. I wore the garment a lot but never really loved it as much as I hoped. The wool was quite heavy and didn’t show off the geometric shape as much as I wanted. Interfacing the fabric would have helped the jacket keep its shape better.
Originally, the pattern was drafted incorrectly. I had assumed the issues with that pattern were my own, and so didn’t mention the flaws in the garment in my original blogpost. In the second photo of me wearing the jacket you can see the extra bubble of fabric at the hem. Paul has adopted the wool version as a winter housecoat. He loves it as it’s like a cosy blanket with pockets!
Papercut Patterns has since updated the pattern to correct the issues. This jacket is made with the reissued shorter version of the pattern. I used size XS as per my original make. My measurements had me at a M. I found the sizing correct for me as I like oversize jackets to be slightly smaller so I don’t feel like I’m swamped in fabric!
This jacket is made in a polyester lurex fabric purchased from The Fabric Store. I believe this fabric was originally used by Mark Jacobs. I love a bold geometric or leopard print fabric especially for evening events. I saw this fabric on The Fabric Store online shop and it was love at first sight. Did you know they have a selection of fabrics only available through their website as online exclusives? I live close to the Fabric Store Wellington but regularly check their online offering.
From my last experience, I decided to interface the fabric with a medium weight gigli interfacing. I probably should have chosen a lightweight option as the interfacing has stiffed the fabric a lot and has removed the natural hand of the fabric. (The hand of fabric is the “feel” of the fabric. The way the fabric feels when it is touched.) I did however wanted to create a coat with impact which I have done successfully! I’ve worn this jacket to a few different posh event and people comment on what a stunning jacket it is so it must look good!
I have always admired Heather Lou’s take on the Nova pattern. I love the shape of the jacket with the fabric she chose and the gorgeous fabric – lush.
I have seen lots of amazing takes on this pattern but I probably won’t make another one as this one is a pretty special show stopper. As a evening jacket I find it superb, but as a cold weather coat there is something about it which doesn’t work for me. I know this coat will get lots of wear now and into the future. I am enjoying having more ‘special’ pieces in my closet if I need to attend a event. I hate sewing to a tight deadline so avoid it where possible.