Paul’s short raincoat fell apart at the end of last season and he has been wanting another one. I love making jackets and working with unusual fabrics I offered to make him one. I have previously made a raincoat jacket for myself – a Waver jacket .
I decided to use Kommatia Patterns J006 as it’s a overstyled style which is a great base for a unisex pattern. I purchased this pattern it a while ago from the Makerist website. Every so often they have 2 euro pattern sales so I bought a couple of patterns I didn’t really need (false economy) so I was glad to have an opportunity to use it!
From looking at other reviews of the pattern I decided to size down to small rather than the medium that Paul measured for. This was a good decision – the jacket has a good amount of ease for layering.
I found the perfect fabric for this raincoat at Drapers Fabrics. It’s waterproof cotton and nylon blend – a great remnant find! The lining is Bemberg from Hawkes and Freer. The seams are not seam sealed however the lining protects the wearer from getting wet. At least it has in my Waver jacket!
The fabric is quite plasticky so I used Microtex needles which are ultra-sharp! I used wonder clips rather than pins to avoid unnecessary holes in the outer fabric. I used pins when sewing the lining as it was quite shifty.
I adjusted the length of the pattern. Paul already has a longer jacket so it made sense make him a shorter jacket version like his old raincoat. I shortened and straightened the back hem which removed all the extra details. On the front of the garment, I removed the tuck detail from the centre of the body – Paul didn’t like this detail of the design.
The original pattern does not include instructions nor pattern pieces for the lining. You need to make a couple of adjustments to the pattern pieces after cutting the outer fabric. I followed this tutorial on Kommatia’s website to line the jacket.
I found the original pattern instructions confusing. Perhaps it was because I was adding lining. Anyway, I found the lining instructions much clearer.
I added polyester mesh stay tape to the shoulder seams of the outer fabric. It adds strength to an area which gets a lot of stress on the seams.
I decided to line the pockets this step wasn’t on the instructions but it’s my preference to have lined pockets. I sewed a piece of lining to the pocket bags treating the fabric as one piece before attaching them to the body of the garment. I’m really proud of the pockets on this jacket I think they look really professional. My Bernina edge stitch foot is my new favourite sewing tool to get a great finish with topstitching.
The hood is the perfect size to protect against rainfall. Water beads beautifully on the fabric – the sign of a good waterproof fabric.
I feel like I’m conquering my goals for my menswear make 9. So far this year I’ve made 8 of the 9 garments that I had planned for Paul.
Paul is loving not having to go shopping (for clothes that is! ). Most days he wears between 2 to 5 Emma made garments. In these photos, all his clothes are Emma made it brings me joy seeing what he puts together every day.
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