Tried and True – Melilot Shirt

The Sewcialists recently celebrated TNT pattern month (short for Tried’N’True). I was planning a number of posts to celebrate a few of my favourite unblogged patterns but didn’t get a chance at the time.

The Melilot Shirt by Deer and Doe patterns is my go-to shirt pattern. Over the last couple of years I’ve sewn a few different versions of this blouse – all are view B with short sleeves either with the full or the mandarin collar. My versions are size 38 graded to size 40 in the hips.

Deer and Doe patterns are drafted for a woman of a similar height and figure to me and with a C-D bust (my bust size) so are an ideal pattern company for me. 

Handmade PhD recently posted a video on Instagram of the way she sewed collars to her shirts. Her method is incredible and she has written a full blog post here. I intend to follow this method in the future.

In some of these photos, the back of the shirt looks quite big – I’m wondering if I should do a swayback adjustment. Please let me know if you have any fitting suggestions!


Cotton chambray with Arrowmountain buttons.


Cotton/Poly stiff shirting with metal buttons.


Mark Jacobs cotton with metal buttons



Liberty of London cotton with plastic buttons




This version has a straight hem rather than curved and is size 40.


Soft cotton shirting with faceted plastic buttons.

20170531_074610A Liberty version which is currently undergoing repairs.

8 Comments Add yours

  1. I love your Melilot Shirts! All of them are lovely and inspiring (I have this pattern! I had no idea they drafted for a larger bust which is wonderful news for me 🙂 ) – when you asked about fitting help I was wondering about those extra folds coming down from the right shoulder and a little from the left back neck (looking at you face on in your photo – from a wearing perspective it would be opposite shoulders) and if you pinched them (creating a dart) you could move that dart to the shoulder seam and create gathers there on the front piece only at the shoulder. I’m a useless at sewing instructions!


    1. Hi Kathleen, I will definitely make a couple of changes to the fit of this top if I make it again. Having not seen the back before this post the wrinkles were a surprise to me.Thanks for your suggestions 🙂


  2. Pingback: Emma's Atelier

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