One of my goals this year is to work on more complicated projects. Coats fit the bill perfectly! I have been living in my Silvia Coatigan which I made it a couple of months ago and I knew I wanted to make a few more coats before the end of winter.
When I saw the Oslo coat by Tessuti Patterns on Instagram I knew it was the perfect coat for me! I love the shawl collar, raglan two piece sleeves and its relaxed shape. My friend Kirsten and I were chatting about sewing coats and we decided to make it together. We shared the costs of printing and purchasing the pattern which covers four A0 sheets. Since we are a similar size we agreed to cut the pattern to a size 10.
Because it’s a slightly oversized pattern I decided not to make a muslin. Instead I held the pieces up to my body to check their intended fit. The only change that I made to the finished garment was to decrease the seam allowance along the upper biceps to .5cm instead of 1cm. I have quite big biceps so this gives more room for wearing sweaters under my coat. I pressed all seams using a tailor’s clapper. Definitely make or purchase one if you intend on working on a coat, it makes a huge difference!
I have been lusting over green outerwear since I saw this amazing coat by Jolies Bobines. She always finds luscious green fabrics. I found the 100% wool coating fabric at a pop-up sale here in Wellington for $5 per meter! Apparently, the manager thought they had purchased too much of this colour so they reduced it from $35 to $5. I used silk for the lining which feels very luxurious.
The pattern pieces for the interfacing are separate from the main garment and lining. The pattern instructs you to interface the shawl collar facings, the hem of the body and sleeves. I interfaced the whole front piece of the pattern which gave the fabric more body and helps the coat to hold its shape.
The PDF file includes pattern instructions and a separate layout guide for the fabrics and interfacing. It was only after making the coat that I realized this was included with the pattern. Normally I don’t use layout guides but I would have found it helpful to make sure I had cut all the right pieces.
In general, found the instructions confusing. The photos included in the instructions are of a blue black outer coating with a black lining. At times it’s impossible to see the difference between the two fabrics. One particular section which confused me was where the sleeves attached to the lining. I was glad to be working on this coat at the same time as Kirsten as we worked out the instructions together.
Instead of following Tessuti’s method of hemming I bagged the lining following Grainline Studio’s tutorial. I have pressed the coat a number of times but haven’t yet taken it to the dry cleaners for a professional press.
Overall I’m really happy with the finished product. I think Tessuti’s pattern drafting is excellent and the style is universally flattering. If I made this coat again I would either remove the pockets as they sit too low on me or adjust their placement. It was fun working with a friend on the same project at the same time. We shared tips and tricks along the way.
Pattern: $15 – costs shared with Kirsten 52 Fancies.
Outer fabric: $10 100% wool
Lining: $15 silk
Buttons and thread: $7
Total cost: $62